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A Word About Our Wildlife

So the other morning I stumbled across something unusual as I stepped into my hay room. It was a Kingsnake eating another smaller black snake. I know that Kingsnakes are non-venomous. So I tossed my impatient horses their hay, then returned to the snake to find it a safer place to finish it’s meal. I relocated it to a nice shady area on my property outside the pasture. I didn’t want it to getting stepped on by the horses or me when I came back to the hay room that evening.

Since this isn’t something you see everyday, I took a picture and posted it, both on my personal Facebook page and thebrokehorseman’s Facebook page. Here is the picture:

Now the responses I got were varied. They ranged from the typical fear response to reptiles to questions on how I identified the snake. And this made me think. As horse owners we are often exposed to wildlife more frequently than the average citizen. We spend a great deal of time outdoors in rural or sub rural settings. We sometimes intrude on their habitats while riding. Animals may come into our barns looking for food or a secure place to raise their young. I thought it would be appropriate to take a brief look at a few animals that might cross our path while at the barn or on the trail.

Snakes

Let’s go ahead and finish the thought on the snakes first. The United States is home to around 50 species of snakes and only 20 species are venomous. This means that over half of all snake species in the US are harmless. Some non-venomous snakes are actually quite beneficial. For instance, the  non-venomous Kingsnake pictured above is immune to the venom of both Water Moccasins and Copperheads. Kingsnakes frequently eat venomous snakes. Other beneficial non-venomous snakes include Rat Snakes, Indigo Snakes, and Corn Snakes. Most of these eat small rodents, sometimes small birds, and eggs.

Ok, so some might be good to have around. That doesn’t help you at all if you can’t tell the difference between a harmless snake and a venomous snake! So how can you tell? Your very best line of defense is to do a few minutes of research. Educate yourself (and your children) on the snakes indigenous to your area. You should have a general idea of the color and pattern of dangerous snakes that live in your area.

However, if you are caught off guard by a snake you don’t recognize,  here are a few basic guidelines to help you determine if the snake in question is indeed a dangerous one. Look at the head shape first (from a safe distance). Most venomous snakes have a triangular head with slotted pupils. Look at this picture of a Copperhead (Southeast US) for reference:

Most non-venomous snakes have a more oval-shaped head and round pupils. The shape of their body is often more round if viewed from above. Venomous snakes tend to have a broader belly with a more prominent spine. Check out this picture of a non-venomous Rat Snake (Southern US):

If you are still not sure and you can avoid getting too close just leave it alone. Most snakes will leave on their own when not cornered.  If it’s definitely venomous – please don’t try to handle it! Call a professional to remove it. If you do decide to kill it (which I don’t recommend trying) remember the severed head can still deliver a venomous bite for a time after decapitation.

Coyotes

Coyotes get a bad rap. They are happy to live in wild, rural, suburban, and now more commonly in cities. These animals are naturally shy and opportunistic eaters. They eat small prey like rabbits, lizards, snakes, and scavenge carcasses. City and suburban coyotes often survive off garbage and neighborhood cats (more on preventing this below). Healthy coyotes are not generally a direct threat to people or large livestock, including our horses. Most that live outside city limits will be scared and wary of humans. Some that live in suburban and urban areas may be more habituated to humans though.

There has only been one documented case of a human death due to coyote attack in the United States. Unfortunately, it was a 3 year old child who was snatched from her yard and sustained a broken neck. Although this incident was tragic it is far from common. Coyotes rarely go after humans, especially adults. When you encounter a coyote on your property or out on the trails it will usually flee the scene. If it acts odd, looks ill, and tries to approach you, seek shelter ASAP. Call animal control as it may be rabid.

Your barn cats, poultry, rabbits, goats, sheep, and even small dogs DO have something to fear from coyotes. Being opportunistic hunters, coyotes have learned small domestic animals are easy prey. If you have barn cats, build them some safe places up high out of the reach of predators. Make secure boxes with small entries on the shelves. I have a barn cat, Simba, that slept on the roof of our house for years to avoid the coyotes.   Keep your chickens up at night and install a predator proof fence around your coop and rabbit hutches. If your small dog comes to the barn with you at night, keep him on a leash. Many small dogs will engage in fights they can’t win. If coyotes are a problem on your farm and you have the space, consider getting a donkey. Donkeys are excellent guard animals that are known to attack coyotes.

Frogs

Frog populations are declining worldwide. There are several theories as to the reasons for their decline. One is the overuse of farming chemicals and pesticides. Although some of us may find these creatures gross or even creepy,  we should do a few simple things to help them when possible.

First, don’t kill them! If you are too afraid to relocate one you find, please ask a friend. None of the frogs indigenous to the US are poisonous to humans. (although the Pickerel Frog does excrete a toxin that can kill some other frogs and irritate our skin). A few times a year you may find tadpoles in your horse’s water trough. Don’t dump it out. Remove the tadpoles first and place them in another bucket using the same water. Place it in a shady location outside the reach of curious horses. All you have to do is make sure the bucket doesn’t go dry or get too hot until the tadpoles develop and leave.

Opossum

Opossums are the only marsupials native to North America. They are nocturnal omnivores that are common throughout most of the US. Although they are generally harmless, they’re not an animal you want in your barn or pastures. Opossums have been linked to E.P.M. in horses. They are a primary host and their droppings can expose your horse to this awful disease. Learn more about E.P.M. here:

http://www.thehorse.com/articles/36110/what-horse-owners-need-to-know-about-epm

 

You should make sure your hay room is not easy for opossum to access. Promptly discard any soiled hay you might find. There is not much you can do to prevent exposure in pastures other that use field fencing with small openings to minimize their entry.

If you find an opossum in your barn and it doesn’t leave, you may need to move it yourself. They are actually easy to remove if you take advantage of their natural defense of playing dead  (Try this at your own own discretion). Simply grab a broom and a trash can or Rubbermaid container with a secure lid. If you can corner, it smack the floor and walls around it with the broom and make some noise. You may have to tap it a few times on it’s back, but there is no need to hurt the animal. It will probably hiss and show its teeth but when that fails, it will play dead. Push it into the container using the broom and close the lid! Now relocate it to nearby woods. Remember to disinfect any containers it touches before using with the horses.

Bees

Few things inspire panic more than stinging insects. So it’s no surprise that even the phrase “swarm of bees” causes people anxiety. Do you know what you should do if you come upon a swarm of bees like the one above on your property or out on a ride?

The first thing you need to know is honeybees are not generally aggressive, especially when they’re swarming. My family keeps honeybees and I have never been stung even when collecting honey or transferring hives. Yellow Jackets are aggressive, and they don’t collect in swarms like bees. This is a Yellow Jacket:

Secondly, a swarm is just a colony of bees looking for a new home. This typically happens in the spring or early fall when a hive gets too large and splits. The new queen and her workers leave the original hive and must find a new location. Trees are often the place they choose to land, but sometimes they will sit on the side of buildings or on fences. They are waiting in a large clump to protect the queen while some scout bees  look for a new hive location.

I would turn around if you are out on a ride and the swarm is very close to the trail. Horses can be startled by unusual smells and sights and it isn’t worth the risk of being unseated and hurt. Both of my horses snort and blow at all our bee equipment when allowed to sniff it and they are generally laid back animals. I am not sure if the smell of the bees themselves bother them. It may be the smoke smell the supplies get from handling the bees with a smoker.

If you feel like there is sufficient space for you to pass by the swarm you could dismount and lead your horse by them. Just remember that they might still be there on your way back down the trail. Either way, the swarm is unlikely to bother you unless you get very close or disturb it.

If you find a swarm on your property call the local bee keeper’s association. They should be able to provide the name of someone who will remove them. A lot of beekeepers will pick them up for free because bees are expensive to purchase. Whatever you do, please don’t spray anything to kill them. Honeybees are declining worldwide just like frogs. Bees are very important to the environment and the pollination process of many popular foods including oranges, almonds, avocados, and coffee.

So the next time you have an unexpected visitor in the barn hopefully you will know what you should do!

 

 

 

 

 

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5 Ways to Save Around the Barn

 

When it comes to horse keeping, a lot of what we do comes down to habit or convenience. We buy the same brands from the same stores because that’s what we’ve always done. However, if we want to save money on our recurring expenses, we need to look at some budget friendly options. Here are five simple ways to cut your regular spending around the barn.

Turn Them Out More

This one is really that simple! A stalled horse requires more hay per day than one turned out on grass. You will also use more shavings when they spend a good portion of the day inside. And as any horse person knows, a bored horse is a destructive horse! Daily turnout helps keep boredom from causing damage to your barn. These repairs add up! Try to schedule as much turn out as possible. If a faded coat is one of your concerns, try overnight turn out in the summer months. I have gone a step further, my horses are out 24/7. They have access to a run in barn which they seldom use. Although I have stalls, I haven’t needed to buy shavings in over a year!

Buy Feed in Bulk

Many feed stores offer a discount if you order your feed in bulk. Our local feed store gives a 10% discount on the purchase of 10 or more bags at a time. Some chain farm stores have similar offers as well. If you won’t use 10 bags before they spoil, see if any of your friends want to purchase feed together to qualify for the savings. Some places may allow you to mix and match your selections as long as the final number of bags equals 10 or more.

Buy Your Hay Directly from the Farm

Hay farmers usually welcome private sales. Go for a drive in the country near you, and you will likely find a hay farm. Most have signs advertising the variety of hay they sell and a contact number. Craigslist, in the farm and garden section, is another good place to find a local hay supplier. If you have a truck it’s easy to simply pick up a load from the farm a few times a year. I even have friends that borrow a truck to do this! The savings average $2-3/bale as opposed to the price of hay at the feed store! Some farmers will offer an additional discount if you come and load hay straight from the field. They will call you the day they are baling. This saves them the time and labor of loading and storing it.

Buy Shavings by the Truckload

Shavings can be purchased by the truckload, and delivered to your barn. The savings can be significant if you have a place to store them. Many barns have separate buildings for this purpose. A utility shed can work well and smaller loads can be stored in an empty stall. Others put them in the center of their covered riding ring. The important thing to consider is accessibility for a small or medium sized semi truck and trailer to the storage area. They will back into the area to unload the loose shavings.

When you call to ask for quotes on price, tell them it’s for horses and needs to be “clean”. This means it is free from debris. It should be just pine shavings with no chance of contamination from toxic trees like Black Walnut. A load can vary in price by location and size, but will generally save around 25-40% cost as opposed to bagged shavings.

Test Before You Worm Your Horses

Rotational worming is a thing of the past. We now know that it actually does more harm than good. Incorrect worming practices have caused some chemicals to lose their effectiveness. Before you worm the next time pick up a fecal worming test kit. You can find several different varieties online ranging in price from $15-30 dollars. These kits allow you to collect a sample and send it( in a postage paid envelope) to a lab. The lab will tell you if worm eggs are found in your herd, and also the species of worms. This helps you to choose the best wormer for the job. Worming might not even be needed at the time. This is especially helpful when you have several horses. Testing a few before worming can add up throughout the year.

 

 

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10 Things to Ask When Buying A Horse

 

If you are looking to buy your next equine partner you know how challenging the search can become. Some sellers are truthful about their horse because they sincerely want to find him a good home. Then there are others who live by the old “truth by omission” standard when selling. They will only tell you about what is  brought up, and are hoping his vices go unnoticed before the check clears! And last but not least are the sellers who will be dishonest and lie. They want to unload a possibly dangerous or simply untrained animal on the first unsuspecting buyer.

So before your next horse shopping adventure, arm yourself with these 10 questions. They’re designed to help find out everything you need to know before signing that check!

How Long Have You Had Him?

This is the first question for a reason. If the seller has only had the horse a short period of time it’s a red flag. Circumstances in life can change suddenly.  However,  if they only had the horse a few months or less, it usually means the horse did something which made them want to sell it. If they are also reluctant to ride the horse before you get on (provided the horse is trained to ride of course!) find out why before you put a foot in the stirrup.

They may also be horse traders that go to local auctions and try to resell the horses for a markup. That means they won’t have a true history on the horse and they might not even know if he has vices, his age, or medical history. It is often best to pass on situations like these unless you are an experienced horseman, or you brought one along for the test ride.

If they have owned the horse for a few years that is a good sign. They should know their individual attitude and be able to tell you many details about them. Sometimes you will find a horse that has only had the one owner. In this case, you could possibly see other relatives of the horse on site. Pay close attention to how the seller handles all the horses, because it is the way that horse has been raised.

Why Is He For Sale?

This is one that every seller is going to expect to be asked. It means they will already have an answer in mind. It also means they may have a  dishonest or partially true answer in mind. That is why the answer to this question alone can mean little to nothing. However, let’s see what a few common answers can really say about the horse (and the seller).

I don’t have time to ride or train him. This is probably the most commonly used reason to sell a horse. Changes in career or stages in life (i.e. college, marriage, babies, etc) are legitimate reasons to sell a horse. If that is the case, all the tack and horse related items should also be available to purchase. If they aren’t interested in selling any other items be suspicious. They won’t need a saddle, bridle, or horse trailer without a horse! That horse is most likely for sale for another undisclosed reason.

I have too many horses. Well, that one should be easy to figure out! how many horses are there? Keep in mind that when it’s time to thin the herd, no one sells their best horse. He may be a perfectly good horse or they may want to get rid of the barn headache.

He is too much for me to handle. This is actually a good sign. If the buyer will tell you that it usually means they will be honest about his behavior. You can decide whether this horse is one you would be comfortable riding based on their description of his behavior. You may be a more experienced rider than the current owner.

He didn’t do well at (whatever they wanted to use him for). Unless you are wanting to use him for that specific discipline, this is also a good thing. Horses,  like people,  have different skills and abilities. I once owned a Saddlebred that wasn’t a flashy mover, but turned out to be a brilliant show jumper!

Where Did You Get Him?

They may answer this when asked how long they have had him. Be sure to ask if they don’t. If they are reluctant to tell you there is a reason. The horse might have come from a feed lot, kill buyer, or auction. Keep in mind not all horses from these places are bad horses. Some end up there through no fault of their own. It can be a gamble, however, because you won’t ever know an accurate history on them.

Has He Ever Foundered, Been Lame, or Had Colic?

If they have owned the horse a few years it has likely had at least one injury or illness. When asked, the seller should be able to tell you the horse’s medical history. Their answer can tell you if the horse seems prone to colic, or has experienced some soundness issues. It will also help you  gauge the level of care the horse received in his current home.  If there was something that concerns you in their answer (or lack of sufficient answer), consider having a vet perform a pre-purchase exam. The initial cost can save you thousands in vet bills later if you can avoid buying a horse with existing issues.

What Does He Eat & How Much Do You Feed Him?

This is a crucial question to ask! You really want to know what this horse is fed before you buy him. There are a few reasons it’s important. First, some horses are extremely hard to keep weight on. If the answer goes something like ,”He gets three scoops of X brand Feed, plus a cup of rice bran, a cup of beet pulp, his supplements, and two flakes of alfalfa hay and three flakes of grass hay twice a day”, you might want to keep looking. Unless you have some seriously disposable income! Finding a horse that requires less feed saves a lot over the years of horse ownership. The second reason is a horse fed cheap sweet feed and insufficient hay won’t be feeling his best. You want to remember he could become more spirited on a better feeding program. The final reason is if the horse is fed a higher protein feed than needed for his workload, he could be hot and high strung. He should become calmer on a lower starch, forage based diet.

What Has He Been Trained To Do?

This should be discussed before you come out to look at him. You might want to ask what else he has been used for either before they owned him, or before he was used in his current discipline. He may be more valuable to you if you know he is trained to drive, knows how to jump, has been in parades, etc. If you know what a horse has accomplished in his riding career it can help you decide if his price is fair.

Does He Have Any Vices?

An honest seller tells you up front if a horse has vices. You want to ask about stable, ground manner, and under saddle vices. Be specific with your questions. It’s harder for the seller to avoid the question or lie if you ask them outright. Ask if they have bucked, reared, or bolted under saddle. Find out if it was an isolated incident or is a habitual behavior. Do they weave, paw, wind suck, crib, wood chew, break fences, open gates, or pull back when tied? How  about biting or kicking? Are they hard to catch and do they load easily? Listen to their answers and explanations carefully. Remember not every horse that has bucked or reared a time or two is a menace.

What Does He Need Work On?

Again, this will give the seller a chance to be honest about a horse’s shortcomings. Be suspicious if they can’t think of anything or say he doesn’t need any improvement. Even the best trained horses have a few areas where they could improve. If the seller has the horse’s best interests in mind he will suggest something the horse doesn’t do well yet. It may be as simple as loading better, or his backing up could be smoother.

How Is He With Other Horses? How About Dogs?

If you have several horses, or keep your horse at a boarding barn, you need to know this! If your new horse turns out to be a pasture bully it may terrorize the other horses. You may end up with angry friends or vet bills. You might even be asked to leave your barn. You also need to know if he kicks or bites at other horses while being ridden.

On the flip side, if you put a very submissive horse in with dominant ones he might be seriously injured. He could be chased through a fence and into a road by another horse. He might not keep his weight well due to the stress. Also he could have trouble accessing hay when offered in the pasture.

You also need to know how the horse is around dogs. Sooner or later someone is going to have a dog loose around your horse. Even if it isn’t your dog, you don’t want to find out the hard way that horse doesn’t like dogs. Some horses will try to trample any dog that comes near them in the pasture. I have never found an effective way to discourage this behavior when present. You must keep the dogs out of the pasture the entire time you own that horse. Keep this in mind if your or any of your friends’ dogs are used to dog friendly horses. You might want to pass on a horse who has dog aggression issues. It only takes a few seconds and the results are tragic.

What Is The Worst Thing You Have Ever Seen This Horse Do?

This question is designed to catch the seller off guard. Chances are they didn’t expect to be asked it. You want to notice if they seem unprepared to answer you or irritated by the question. Give them a moment to think about it though. Let them tell the story, and then ask if anything  similar has happened since. If it was a loading or tying accident, ask if they are good at those skills now. If it was related to spooking, ask if the horse spooks frequently. Remember freak accidents do happen even with the best of horses.

So, there’s a few things you can ask when considering a new horse. I try to find out as much as possible by phone, text, or email before even seeing the horse. No need to waste your time or theirs if it doesn’t seem like the horse will be a good fit. Happy horse hunting!

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5 Skills to Train Your Horse Before Hitting the Trails

It’s that time of year again! Yep, if you are like me you get excited when the time changes and the longer days mean more time to ride! But before you hit the trails, here are five skills your horse should learn to ensure a safer, more enjoyable riding season.

How to Come When Called

This is a skill all horses should have period. On the trail, however, it is even more important  your horse will come back to you when called.  In the event that your horse gets untied while camping, spooks while being led, or you fall during the ride, this command can save his life. If you can’t catch him quickly he could end up disappearing into the woods. Worse yet, he might run into nearby roads. You could end up on foot far from home or your trailer. You might even have to go home without your horse after hours of searching.

So how do you teach your horse to come when called? It’s simple and can be done in as little as five minutes a day. First, find a treat your horse loves. I use alfalfa pellets because they are convenient to carry and nutritious too. The next time you go to catch your horse in the pasture, call him with whatever signal you want him to recognize. For me that is his name followed by the command come. For example, “Indy, come!”. You could also use a whistle or another sound if you want. At first it will not mean anything to him, but when he gets a treat every time he comes he will connect the dots. Do this each time you bring him in. Soon enough he will come quickly when you call.

I also strengthen this behavior by asking for it while in the ring. For instance, before I mount (or bridle him), I will walk to the other side of the ring and call him. When he comes I will praise him and give a treat. If he doesn’t respond at first, shorten the distance you walk away from him until he understands to come when called.  After a ride, this can be a fun game to do while cooling out. Just a few repetitions a day will be enough to ensure he knows this essential skill if needed out on the trails.

To Load and Unload Calmly

You would think this would go without saying, right? Unfortunately, loading manners are an often overlooked area of a horse’s education. Your horse should get on your trailer willingly and unload quietly. There is nothing more frustrating than a horse that won’t get on the trailer when you want to go somewhere, or even worse, when you are ready to go home!  If your loading routine includes ropes, brooms, chains on halters, or requires two or more people, he needs work on this skill!

Often times loading is considered as a means to an end. It is rarely taught as a separate skill although it should be. It is usually forced on the unsuspecting horse the day of the ride, show, vet appointment, or whenever else he has to go somewhere. Any method that ends with the horse on the trailer is considered successful.  Little thought is given to the stress it causes the horse. The next time he sees his trailer is the next time he has to get on to go somewhere. He never has the chance to develop confidence in loading without the pressure of his owners who just want to get him to X event that day.

( Whiskey during an at liberty loading session)

Plan a day to work on loading your horse.  A day without any demands on your time for a few hours at least. Properly hitch your trailer whenever practicing loading. Bring a snack (for you and some hay, grain, and treats for your horse), some water, and your patience.

Allow your horse to inspect the trailer without pressuring him to load. When he is calm and relaxed, walk into the trailer and expect him to follow you. If he doesn’t  just stop and wait. Let him think for a minute. Be sure not to wrap the coils of your lead rope around your hands in case he pulls back. Allow the rope to slide loosely through your hands if he backs up. When he takes a step forward praise him and give him a treat. Ask for another step and wait for it. If he seems stuck for a long time without showing any effort, back him off the trailer and start over.

Most horses will load themselves within ten minutes if they are not being pressured or rushed. Once he has loaded just allow him to stand there and eat his hay or grain without tying him or closing the trailer. Horses are claustrophobic animals and many loading issues come for the doors being slammed as soon as their hind feet are on. If he backs off that gives you another chance to ask him to practice getting back on again. The key is not to lose your patience and to end on a positive, stress free note.

Horses will learn to back off a trailer quietly by themselves when the have confidence in the loading process. Do this a few times with your horse and he will be a pro at loading the next time you want to hit the trails.

( Indy during an at liberty loading session)

To Cross Water

Sooner or later you are going to come to a puddle, stream, or river that you cannot go around and must ride through on the trails. Some horses really dislike walking through water. They can be downright unpredictable when asked to cross water. A few minutes at home can help you avoid a nasty wreck on the trail.

Most properties have a few spots that puddle after a heavy rain. You can take advantage of these by asking your horse to lead through it. A good pair of rain boots will be helpful here. He may try to avoid it that first, but if you remain calm and lead the way he will eventually follow. Be aware that some horses might try to jump it.  If you think he will try that, stand to the side of the puddle and lunge him through it if possible. If you can’t find a puddle, a tarp is a good substitute. Repeat this exercise under saddle until you can ask him to navigate through small and large puddles and across tarps quietly.

He may still be apprehensive when he encounters larger water crossings on the trail. However, the practice he had at home will give him the confidence to trust you when asked to cross it. Remember to always use caution and good judgement when crossing water on horseback. Stick to well known trails with established crossing points for safety. If you get into water deeper than your horse’s chest dismount and swim beside him (next to the saddle), using the reins to guide him. Never ask a horse to cross water while wearing a tie down-It can cause the horse to drown.

The One Rein Stop

This a basic skill every horse should learn and every rider should master. The one rein stop allows you to regain control of your horse when he bolts or acts up. There is nothing scarier than a runaway horse and it’s hard to enjoy a ride if your horse won’t settle down. The one rein stop causes the horse to disengage his hindquarters and lose his forward energy coming back under the control of his rider. It is a powerful tool that can stop some dangerous situations.

When you teach this you want to do it in an enclosed space and use a snaffle, sidepull, halter,  or other non-shanked bit. Ask your horse to walk and run one hand down a rein and bring it around towards the horse’s hip, allowing the other rein to loosen so he can bend his neck. Hold the pressure steady until the horse stops turning and stands still. Release the pressure and praise the horse if he stands quietly. If he walks off again before you ask, simply use the one rein stop again until he learns to stand still after he stops.

It is important that the rider remains upright in the saddle and doesn’t lean towards the rein when applying the stop. Doing so will cause a loss of balance especially at higher speeds when you might need to use it most. Once he understands it at the walk, repeat at the trot, then at the canter. Make sure you work with both reins, as you never know which way you will have to turn your horse to stop him in an actual emergency on the trail.

It should become second nature for a rider to apply and your horse should instantly respond when asked to stop using this method. If you have to apply the one rein stop while riding in a shanked bit on the trails, remember the shanks increase the amount of force being applied to the horse’s face. Use only the amount of pressure needed to stop your horse.

Knowing that you can stop your horse quickly no matter what happens can go a long way towards enjoying the trails!

The Leapfrog Game

Horses are herd animals and sometimes their herd instincts make riding in groups more complicated. It can be annoying or even dangerous if your horse takes off every time the horse in front of him goes faster, If he won’t lead the group or crowds the horse in front of him. This simple game helps a horse listen to his rider and ignore what horses around him do.

This game requires two or three riders. Start with one horse leading the others in single-file order. Have the horse in the back trot around the other two and take the lead at the walk. The two riders who are being passed should correct their horses if they try to trot when they are passed. Do this until all horses have been in front, middle, and back, and can stay calm at a walk when passed. Then have the passing horse continue to trot once in front for a little distance then stop. Allow the other horses to catch up and repeat. Repeat with the passing horse trotting and cantering until the horses have lost interest in keeping up with it. This exercise can be done a few times a year to remind your horse of his manners in groups.

These are a few very important skills that are easy to train at home. A simple investment of a few hours at home can help to ensure many safe and fun hours on the trails!

 

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How to Save on Boarding Your Horse

One of the most expensive aspects of horse ownership are the costs associated with boarding your horse. Unless you are fortunate enough to have land to keep your horses at home, you will have to make arrangements to board him. Boarding facilities vary greatly from simple access to pasture without shelter to full board facilities with round the clock care and indoor riding rings. And just as the amenities can vary so can the cost. It depends on the level of care you are willing to help with an how extravagant the barn is. Let’s focus on a few ways to cut costs while still offering a safe and healthy home for your horse.

Pasture Board- This is a very economical way to keep your horse. Some barns may have run-in sheds for shelter from bad weather, but others may only offer the natural shelter of trees in the pasture. Most horses on pasture board are not fed by the barn staff. If your horse requires additional feed you will have to supply it and come feed him daily. Some barns will have stalls set up for the feeding of pastured horses, where others will not. This means having to catch your horse and stand with him while he eats everyday. The vast majority of horses will thrive in a pasture setting and enjoy the freedom of not being stalled. It is important to make sure the pasture has plenty of grass and isn’t overcrowded. Those conditions encourage fighting and allow for parasite issues as well. Also, ask if hay will be offered throughout the winter months when pasture grass may be limited. Check the fence carefully and make sure the other horses on the property are in good body condition.

Co-Op/Share Boarding- This is a unique option if you know of a few trustworthy people looking for a place to board their horses. You find a suitable property for lease or rent and split all the expenses including the lease price, hay, shavings, and utilities on the property. Sometimes you can find a property that needs some repair work. Negotiate with the owner for a discounted lease price if you can handle the repairs. This can work out well if you have a few trusted friends, but can become an issue if someone doesn’t pay their share or leaves unexpectedly. You also have to consider the care of the horses and the facility. Most boarding barns have a staff to take care of your horse when you are unavailable. In a share boarding situation, the owners will have to work out a schedule and be willing to take turns caring for the other boarders’ horses. Any routine maintenance will also fall on the boarders.

Work Off Your Board- If you have the time and are physically able, you can often work out a deal helping out around the barn to save on boarding costs. Most barns only have a few full time employees. They are usually looking for someone who can fill in a few days a week to help with stall cleaning, turnout, and feeding. Some barns may even need help with their lesson program if you are qualified. You will have to talk to the barn owner to see what can be worked out.  Each barn has unique needs. This is an option I used throughout my teenage years to minimize my boarding costs. You will also save on gym membership with this option!

Lesson/Working Horse Option- If you horse is well trained you may be able to save on boarding by allowing him to be used in lessons for reduced board. A lot of barns want to save stall space for paying boarders. They don’t want to spend a ton of money on caring for full time lesson horses. If you horse is well behaved and has shown successfully many barns might use him in their program. If you could share your horse a few times a week this could be a valid option to reduce costs.

Companion Horse- Sometimes you can find someone who is looking for a companion for their only horse at a private property. This can work if your horse is good with other horses. Often times this arrangement can be very cost effective or even free.

So there you have it! These are a few ways you can save on boarding. The costs can be different depending on where you live.  However, with a little time and negotiation, you can save on this expensive part of horse ownership.

 

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