If you have been riding long enough, you have probably realized there are basically two types of horses: those you must constantly hold back, and those you must constantly push forward. It seems very rare indeed to find a horse with a natural balance of forward energy and a quiet disposition. It is, in essence, our job as riders to help our horses become more consistent under saddle. This article focuses on a few strategies to help get a better, quicker response from hard to motivate (aka lazy) horses without excessive force.
There is nothing more frustrating than a horse that just won’t go when asked! Most of us have ridden one that defiantly refused to move any faster than a walk no matter what we tried. Or one that wouldn’t move at all, and simply balked before the ride even started! Some only work when you carry a crop as a constant threat, resort to solid thumps against their ribs, or wear and misuse spurs. At some point, even these methods lose their effectiveness as the horse begins ignoring them. Others escalate to more dangerous behaviors such as bucking, rearing, and attempting to bite their rider when they are pushed to work. Obviously this isn’t fun ( or safe) for either horse or rider!
Let’s take a minute and talk about different reasons for a sluggish horse. Then we will examine a few simple methods to achieve a willing and responsive riding partner.
The Reasons for an Unwilling Horse
As always, I will start with a basic disclaimer for all behavioral issues. Pain, whether from ill fitting or incorrectly adjusted tack, a sore back, teeth, hooves, or arthritic joints, can cause an unwilling horse. Please check these things first.
The most common reason for an unresponsive horse is a lack of proper training. They were most likely kicked until they moved forward as a green horse. Over time, less experienced riders didn’t ask for forward movement with a light squeeze and continued to kick them for every transition of every ride. The constant kicking eventually dulled the horse’s responsiveness. These horses are not disobedient but more aptly described as desensitized. They become lighter to the leg aids with simple exercises by a consistent rider. There are even ways to help them become more responsive from the ground.
Other horses quickly become bored and unmotivated. They tend to be very confident, intelligent, calm animals in general. Unfortunately, their calm demeanor often means they end up being owned or used with less confident riders. Their intelligence means they quickly become frustrated with repetitive arena work and beginning riders, and learn to defy their riders’ requests.
The key to unlocking their potential is positive reinforcement. No amount of force will motivate these horses. In fact these are often the ones that become dangerous when pushed. You have to encourage them to want to do what you ask. When dealing with these types, I have found clicker training to be a great way to make riding fun again for them! Please see my article on clicker training for some methods and resources to try with these types of horses.
Methods for a Responsive Horse
In my late teens and early twenties I retrained spoiled horses. Despite an intense love for riding, I had a very limited budget. I soon found that many horses could be purchased inexpensively because they had bad habits. In time I got pretty good at retraining horses others couldn’t or wouldn’t ride. In the process, I learned a few strategies to overcome common issues without abuse.
I will start with a simple method you can use from the ground. You will need a halter, long lead line (10-12ft is ideal) and a long dressage whip or stiff natural horsemanship type stick. I find the stiffer natural horsemanship stick without the string attached works better for this exercise. Stand with your horse next to you, the lead rope in the hand closest to your horse allowing plenty of slack , and the whip/stick in the other hand. Tap the horse against his ribs (right where your leg would lie while riding) with the whip lightly once, (pause) twice, (pause) and on the third time increase the pressure to a light swat. Continue swatting until they make any move forward. Make sure you are near the horse’s shoulder in case he gets startled and jumps forward or kicks out.
This exercise can be done facing the horse’s side as if lunging if you worry they may kick out. Make sure to give them enough room to move forward on the lead and stay closer to the front of the horse out of their kick zone. In this position, you can tap the ribs or the top of the back where the rider would sit lightly (don’t swat their spine though). Always reward and praise any forward movement by your horse.
Repeat this exercise until your horse moves off the first light tap. The key is to always start with the lightest tap and only get harder if they don’t respond. Allow them to walk with you for several strides before you stop, then ask again. Most horses learn this very quickly and it transfers well to the saddle. I often carry the dressage whip for the first few rides back to remind them of the new exercise. I start with a gentle squeeze of the thighs and calves, followed with the tapping of the whip.
The next method is a ridden variation of the ground exercise. This one is commonly used by show jumpers to encourage an immediate go from a rider’s aids. I originally observed this done in warm up rings at the local horse park where I frequently ride.
Apply a light squeeze with your legs (no kicking), and take the slack out of the reins with one hand raising it slightly above the mane. Hold the excess rein in the other hand. Start swinging the excess rein from one side of the neck to the other, slapping their neck or shoulder very lightly at first. Increase the intensity of the slapping slowly while keeping the same rhythm until the horse moves forward. Accept any forward movement, whether a walk, trot, or canter. Allow them to continue a few strides before stopping and starting over from the beginning.
Do this in a small space like a round pen or riding ring so you don’t have to be concerned about where your horse is going. The key to this exercise is making each move distinct and deliberate. Always start with the squeeze, lift the rein right above the neck, then start slapping lightly with the reins. Stop swatting as soon as you get forward movement.
Your horse learns to avoid that annoying slapping by moving as soon as he feels the squeeze of your thighs or you lift and collect your reins just above his neck. Some horses learn to go as you pick up your reins without needing a squeeze. They can then be trained to change gaits from walk to trot, or trot to canter, by simply lifting your hands up and forward.
Remember to refine the training first at a halt asking for walk, then repeat at a walk asking for a trot. Insist on a consistent response at these gaits before you ask for a canter. Obedience is a habit. Speed should only be asked for after they have mastered a light and calm transition.
These methods have helped me retrain countless horses over the years. Some were deemed too dangerous to ride. With a little consistency and patience these strategies can help you achieve a lighter, more responsive horse as well!
